November 29, 2007

Traditional, Yet Trendy.

Bandani with its intricate designs in kaleidoscopic colours manages to survive inspite of changing trends says Anita Iyer.

Bandhani are the bright multi-coloured patterns on cotton, muslin or silk cloth using the Tie and Dye method. As the name suggests, the technique of Tie and Dye involves two stages: tying sections of cloth and then soaking it in colour dyes. The word "bandhani" is derived from the verb ‘bandhna’, which means to tie.



Shabnam Deshmukh, Head of Department of Academy of Art and Design says, “Bandhani has survived through the ages inspite of the changing trends in fashion. Many patterns in fashion get replaced but Bandhani has adopted the changes and has survived. Earlier only duppatas, dress materials or sarees were available with Bandhani works on them but today even Kurta, tops, men’s shirts are available”.

She further adds, “People are fed up of wearing machine made modern garments with same prints so they prefer going back to their traditional roots and wearing hand designed garments. The tying effect in bandhani gives it an appealing effect, which cannot be seen in any other form of garments. Also, the colour combination in Bandhani is unique with multi coloured shades on it”.

The colours mainly used in bandhani are yellow, red, green and pink – the traditional colours in Rajasthani culture. Different colors used convey different meaning like red color stands for bride and a yellow bandhani is mainly for the lady who has become a mother recently. Bright colours as green and maroon are extensively used in the art form, but with changing times, as bandhani has become a part of fashion, various shades and English colors like grey, beige are now used for tie and dye.

The process of making bandhani is complex and involves many steps right from tying the cloth to washing the cloth after dying. Portions of cloth to be retained from the dye are tightly tied with wax cotton threads so as to give white circles when wrappings are removed. The remaining part of the fabric is dyed in dark colours like red, purple, dark green, deep blue or black to form the background.

There is a unique design in bandhani where the background is in light color and the patterns are in dark colors. This pattern is made by dyeing sections of the cloth in the desired color with a piece of a felt (non-woolen cloth) and then tying it. The cloth is bleached and only the tied sections retain the colors. Later when the background color is dyed, the finished bandhani emerges, with dark coloured dots on a light background. According to the necessary, the cloth is retied and redyed.

For making small white circles on the cloth, green peas for smaller circles and Kabuli chana for bigger circles and coins can be used for concentric circles. The whole concept of tying before dying is basically to prevent the dye from reaching the fabric evenly. Portions that are tied will stay white, or of a lighter shade because the knot prevents dye to reach those areas. Gradations of colour from dark to light make the bandani cloth look beautiful.

The fascinating thing about the process of bandhani making is the artists often grow a long nail on the little finger of the left hand or wear a ring with a tip on it. This rings helps them to push the cloth upwards to form a point that would then be tied and left uncoloured.

Another interesting aspect is the local name given to each pattern according to the shapes they form. Some of the most common designs are dungar-shahi or the mountain-pattern; kodi for a tear shaped one, boond for a small dot with a dark center, and the laddu-jalebi for the swirling patterns. Others include Tikunthi for circles and squares in a group of three, ‘Chaubasi’ for four and Satbandi for a group of seven.

The origins of this lasting traditional art form can be associated to the State of Jaipur. However, the common belief states that it was brought to Kutch by Muslim Khatris from Sindh. Bandhani was introduced in Jamnagar around 400 years ago and today is a leading center of Bandhani. The literary text of the Harshacharita refers to Bandhani. A bandhani garment is considered lucky for the bride.

A bandhani artist from Kutch Mr. Zakharia Khatri, a 62 year old, National Award winner says, “We have been involved in bandhani making since ages. Our forefathers were involved in this art form, we inherited it and now even my children have adapted it. What makes bandhani attractive are the geometric patterns like dots, circles, squares, waves and stripes etc. Also, the other attractions are the colours used which are generally burnt brown with the designs worked in red, yellow, green, maroon and orange”.

Earlier, natural and vegetable dyes were used to colour the fabrics but today, synthetic modern dyes have replaced them. The main reason being that natural dyes are expensive than their synthetic counterparts. On this, Survat Anand, a fashion designer says, “Contemporary designers are opting for synthetic chemical dyes to keep pace with ever changing fashion tends. Also, the use of chemical dyes has reduced the time required for fabric to absorb the colours, in contrast with the natural dyes which took several days to marinate”.

November 28, 2007

Golden legacy

The Kanhai Gharana has revived the lost art of golden Krishna paintings in the past few decades, says Anita Iyer.


In Indian mythology, Lord Krishna is the only deity who absorbs various shades of identity and Kanhai Gharana has brought about a revolution in Kanhai paintings, which were on the verge of extinction. Enhanced with gold foil and embossed with precious stones, the Kanhai Gharana created Krishna paintings, which recited visually mesmerizing stories of Lord Krishna. One look at the sparkling Kanhai paintings gives us an illusion of reincarnation of Lord Krishna.

In North India, Kanhai paintings had almost became extinct but Kanhai Chitrakar, one of the pioneers of this art form took up the challenge to revive the art form about fifty years ago. He made use of oil paint to draw on the canvas and decorate with silver, gold jewellery and Jaipur glass stones to enhance that beauty a little more.

To carry the golden legacy further, his sons- Padmashri Krishn Kanhai and U.P Ratna award winner Govind Kanhai joined him and infused innovative techniques to give it a contemporary look. “We gave a new meaning to Kanhai paintings by entering the area of Contemporary paintings, Portraits, Realistic Folk, fusion and 3D paintings. Also the use of Swarovski stones to emboss the paintings made them cost crores, which once were priced Rs. 400-500 only”, says Krishn Kanhai.

It is a mere coincidence that their name is Kanhai, the Gharana is involved in making Kanhai paintings and they stay in Vrindavan, a place intimately connected with Lord Krishna. Krishn Kanhai opines, “We capture the beauty and grace of the Almighty. The emotion portrayed in our works is due to the grace of God. It is beyond our control, it comes naturally on the canvas through the brush as a part of devotion”.

To which Krishn Kanhai adds, "Further we just portray that parts of his life, which can be easily interpreted by the common people. If we get into the depth of the art, it would be beyond their understanding and won't convey any message to the viewers".


The specialty of Kanhai paintings is that it arouses a sense of spirituality and bestows the home with a sense of peace and harmony. In today’s fast paced world, people do not have time for spiritualism and this painting hung on the walls attracts towards spiritualism. It is more than a painting; people do not resale it soon. They develop a kind of intimacy and attachment towards Lord Krishna. Placing Kanhai paintings in the house changes the vibrations, it changes the mindset of the family members residing in the house”, says Krishn Kanhai.

Quizzed why they are involved only in sketching Krishna and not any other God, Govind Kanhai promptly replies, “Krishna is the only persona who can be well expressed on the canvas because his character itself is very colourful, lively, filled with happiness, and boosts of aesthetic beauty, lavanya and shringar. Also, other gods have fixed postures but there are many poses and deviations when it comes to Lord Krishna”.

Episodes from Bhagvad Gita, Geet Gobind and poems by Meerabai, Surdas, Jaydeva etc. inspires the Kanhai Gharana to sketch breathtaking images of Lord Krishna on canvas. One look at the Kanhai paintings gives an illusion of reincarnation of Lord Krishna.

Govind Kanhai expresses, “We get immersed in the history and imagine how Lord Krishna might be looking in a particular situation be it - Bal Krishna, Yuva Krishna performing Raslila with gopis (females). We go into intricate detailing like the Turban, dhoti, kundal, basuri, mukut etc.; he might be sporting in the scene. We draw Krishna characters as it is mentioned in the scriptures”.

In Kanhai paintings, a good deal of importance is given to the expressions of the elements. “Different expressions gives different effects to the paintings. While making the paintings, attention must be given to expressions, the smile must signify what Lord Krishna might be thinking at that time, eyes should be expressive and communicate with the viewers. Even slight variation in the smile reduces the attraction of the painting”.

The use of gold in paintings dates back to the eighteenth century when it was limited only for the palaces of kings and rulers because it was very expensive. Gradually, Tanjore painters in South India and Nathdwara region in Rajasthan adopted the art forms. Kanhai Chitrahar observed that the Krishna paintings made in Tanjore had typical posture and the body was not proportionate. Also the body language was not impressive with fewer expressions on the faces of Lord Krishna. The Rajasthanis drew only miniature sized with limited scope for creativity, so the Kanhai Patriarch started the Kanhai Gharana legacy to renew the tradition.

Apart from Golden Krishna paintings, the Gharana also boosts of high profile clientele like Mr. Bill Clinton, Hema Malini, Mr. Lal Krishna Advani, Mr. Atal Bihari Vajpayee, and Mr. Amar Singh. Asked what excites them more, drawing Krishna painting or human portraits, Krishna Kanhai replies, “Beauty in any form is worth capturing. We artists like to capture beauty and portray it on our canvas now be it human or God. However, nothing can give the pleasure derived from illustrating Krishna on the canvas”.

Today, the Kanhai Gharana boosts of 15,000 paintings in totality with Kanhai Chitrahar in it from the past 55 years, Krishn Kanhai from past 30 years and Govind Kanhai from past 25 years. The golden legacy continues with Siddhartha Kanhai, the third generation of the Kanhai Gharana entering in.




November 13, 2007

Age old secrets.


It’s an irony that for treating new-age ailments, we are going back to the age-old Ayurvedic remedies, Says Anita Iyer.


Ayurveda is a living science and one of the oldest scientific medicinal systems providing varied remedies through the ages. Owing to the fast-paced lives today, many professionals are turning towards Ayurveda to rejuvenate themselves. Dr. Prashant C P, an Ayurvedic consultant says, “Earlier these Ayurvedic treatments were only opted by people belonging to the elderly age group. But today, increasingly youngsters and professionals are looking it as a means to rejuvenate their body. We have many stress releasing massages, which relieves them from stress, refreshes their mind and promotes sound sleep, enhances memory and helps them to resist stress”.

Mr. Srikanth Nair, Director of Kerala Ayurvedic Center says, “Today it is noted that especially more and more youth are getting treated for stress and insomnia, chronic problems, arthritis, lower back pain, gastro problems, etc. Due to deviation of lifestyle, many new-age disorders are seen and youngsters are taking up Ayurveda for assured results with no side effects”.

According to Ayurveda, a human body is composed of five elements- fire, earth, air, water and ether. Ayurveda is based on ‘The tridosha (or three elements) theory’. The tridoshas here comprises Vata (air), Pitta (fire) and Kapha (water). In human body, vata is considered to be present below the navel, pitta between the heart and navel and kapha is positioned in the chest, throat and head area. A person is fit only when all these tridoshas are in a balanced state. Ayurveda not only stresses on physical well-being of a body but also mental and spiritual happiness.

The curative massage treatments in Kerala Spas enhances the nervous and immune systems, relaxes the aching muscles and joints, smoothens and improves the quality of skin, and revives the mind and rejuvenates the body. The Ayurvedic massages are useful in treating ailments like Bronchial Diseases, Rheumatism, arthritis, hypertension, paralysis, nervous debility, sinusitis, Slip Disk and Spondylitis, Nervous debility, obesity and stress related problems etc.


Ajo Tominic, an Ayurvedic consultant and massager for past six years says, “There are treatments in Kerala Ayurvedic Spas for various ailments like Arthritis, respiratory problems, beauty treatments like slimming and body firming treatments. In Ayurvedic spas, the body is massaged with mediated oil made from valuable herbs with healing properties like Bella, Hibiscus, Bhringaray, Aswagandha, Sandalwood, Triphala, Eucalptus, Tulsi, and Lemon Grass which rejuvenates the body”.



These herbal oils are used as they have medicinal benefits and also a medium for smooth massaging the body and to give proper massage strokes. It is a known fact that Ayurvedic treatments have slow but long lasting benefits for human ailments. “For headaches, we normally use a pain killer as a temporary remedy, the headache might subside for the moment but may reoccur. In Ayurvedic Spas, we have a treatment called ‘Shirodhara’ where oil mixed with medicated milk is poured on the forehead for 40 minutes in a day for a period of 7 to 21 days continuously. This treatment relieves mental tension, headache or migraine and relaxes your mind and body”, adds Ajo Tominic

After the massage, the patients go through a process of herbal steam bath and a warm shower following it. Lemon grass or Eucalyptus oil is essentially used in the bath. The steam bath after the massage treatment detoxifies the body and improves the blood circulation. The medicinal properties of the herbal oils are absorbed by pores in the skin and relieve the body from pain and anxiety.

Ayurveda is the science of life and shows a way to eliminate disorders, stay healthy and attain longevity. In Alopathy, diseases are treated the disease after the symptoms are seen but in Ayurveda the root cause of the disease is treated thereby giving long lasting effects.

Dr. Prashant C P says, “Ayurveda is a living science with age-old remedies of about 5000 years. Ayurveda removes the cause of disease and re-establishes balance to our system. In Ayurveda massages, our emphasis is on relaxation and rejuvenation of the body”.

The concept of Kerala Ayurvedic Spa is popular even among the foreigners, as they have seen the wonders of this age-old Indian tradition. Ana Sachs, a 52-year-old lady from USA says, “It was deceptively simple and at first I didn’t think it could possibly work, but by the third day I was walking like I did when I was twenty. I found profound result from each of the different treatments, which is a real testimony to the efficacy of this ancient method. The herbs used in treatment are fabulous and did miracles to the body”.


Mrs. Janani, a PhD Yoga Therapist in Ayurvedic Treatment, USA says, “The oils used were qualitatively superior and helped in rejuvenating my body. My age is 48. I had chronic low grade to severe back pain daily since long due to repeated auto accidents and other injures. But after 3 days treatment of Abhyangam, Shirodara and Swedana, the pain completely disappeared”.

"This spiritual science offers numerous health benefits with no side effects and healing through Ayurveda becomes fun not a punishment for the patient", Concludes Mr. Srikanth Nair.

However, there are others who think otherwise. Like Dr. Manju Ghildiyal, a consulting physiotherapist says, "For chronic pain, massages are useful to give healing effect but for acute Spondylitis, Slip disc or arthritis, massage is not a viable idea. Patients prefer Ayurveda because it has no side effects but in case of acute diagnosis, Alopathy is the only remedy as Ayurveda takes time to heal".


Five merry days of Diwali

In today’s fast-paced life, Diwali can help revive your soul, says Anita Iyer.

The word "Diwali" is derived from the Sanskrit word "Deepavali", where Deepa meaning light and Avali, meaning a row. So, the word ‘Deepavali’ means a row of lights and every home is adorned with a row of twinkling diyas, small earthen lamps traditionally fueled by mustard oil, are placed in rows in windows, doors and outside buildings to welcome Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity. The other attractions of the festival include a surfeit of mithai, Rangoli designs at the entrance of the homes or floral decorations and gifts for all and sundry.

Here we go to the roots of the festival in an effort to keep alive tradition and bring the people who have lost out on the significance of Diwali up to speed.

Of the many legends attached to celebration of Deepavali the most well known is that it is in commemoration of the day when Lord Rama returned to his empire after 14 years of vanvaas or exile. Lord Rama returned after defeating Ravana and so it marks the victory of good over evil. All of Ayodhya were so happy about his return that they spontaneously lit his way with diyas.

The festival of lights is celebrated for five days and each day has it's own significance and ritual. Behind each day, there are many attached legends and myths in the scriptures. Also, each region of India celebrates Diwali in it's own unique way


The first day is Dhanteras or Dhantrayodashi which falls two days before Diwali.
The word "Dhan" means wealth and holds great significance as Goddess Lakshmi is worshipp
ed for wealth and prosperity. On this day, home entrances are adorned with colourful Rangoli designs and small red footprints made from rice flour and vermilion are imprinted all over the house to indicate her awaited arrival. Lamps are lit through the night. The legend behind this is that according to the horoscope of King Hima’s sixteen-year-old son, he was destined to die on the fourth day of his marriage by snakebite. His determined young wife didn’t allow him to sleep that night by reciting stories of yore and singing devotional songs. At the entrance of their bedroom, she placed a heap of her gold and silver ornaments and illuminated the room with many diyas surrounding his bed. At midnight when Yamraj, the god of Death arrived in guise of a serpent, the glare of lamps blinded him and he could not enter the prince's chamber. He remained mounted on the heap of ornaments the whole night listening to the young wife’s stories. Thus, the kaal or death of the Prince was held at bay. Since that time, Dhanteras came to be known as the day of "Yamadeepdaan" and the lamps are kept burning throughout the night to worship Yamraj

The more well known importance of this day is that it is extremely auspicious to buy a precious metal. In fact gold and silver shops remain open through the night so as not to turn customers away! Anjali Sonawane, a homemaker says, “Diwali is the most awaited festival in the year. More awaited is the Dhanteras day when we usually shop for gold or silver jewellery or at least something for the home as it is considered auspicious to shop on this day”.

The second day of the festival of lights or Choti Diwali, is called Narak-Chaturdashi. This day symbolizes 'Narakasur Vadh', the death of demon Narakasur, who was also the ruler of Pragjyotishpur. As the story goes, after defeating Lord Indra, the demon snatched away the earrings of Aditi, the Mother Goddess and imprisoned sixteen thousand daughters of the gods. A day before Narakachaturdashi, Lord Krishna killed the demon, recovered the earrings of Goddess Aditi, set free the damsels and accepted them as his wives to save them from embarrassment. To convey victory, he smeared his forehead with the demon’s blood and returned home on the morning of Narakachaturdashi. The womenfolk, whom he married, massaged his body with scented oil and gave him a royal bath to wash away the filth from his body. Following this custom even today, men break a bitter fruit called ‘kareet’ with their foot, symbolizing the way Lord Krishna broke the demon’s head. The juice of the fruit is then touched to the tongue or smeared on the forehead. After this all the family members take an oil bath after applying "Uptan", a paste of gram flour and sandalwood before sunrise on Narakachaturdashi.

The third day of the five-day long festival is actual Diwali, which falls on the absolutely moonless dark night of Amavasya. In the evening, "Lakshmi-Puja" is performed when tiny diyas of clay are lit to drive away evil powers. A part of the ritual in Maharashtra is offering dry coriander seeds with jaggery as offering, Naivedya. This day originally reflected the fact that it is harvest season, a time of prosperity and enjoyment. Also, it is said that goddess Laxmi emerged from the Kshira Sagar when the gods and demons carried out Amrit Manthan. Thus, Diwali is a celebration to commemorate the rebirth of Goddess Lakshmi who is regarded as the goddess of beauty, light, cleanliness, wealth and good luck.

According to Hindu mythology, it is believed that Goddess Lakshmi visits every house during the dark night of Diwali and gives blessings of peace and prosperity only to those who light lamps and keep their house illuminated the whole night. Therefore, people light up lamps in the house in order to light the path of Goddess Lakshmi and welcome the 'Goddess of Wealth and Prosperity'.
Chopadi Puja is a ritual performed on this day when the Hindu businessman traditionally starts a new ledger or Bahikhata for the next year with the hope of greater prosperity in the coming year.


On the home front, after dressing up in new clothes, carrying out Lakshmi Puja, wishing all near and dear ones a very happy Diwali, consuming great quantities of food and mithai, families burn firecrackers to round off a perfect day.

The Fourth day of Diwali is the Govardhan Puja or VarshaPratipada also called Padwa and signifies the day Lord Krishna defeated Indra. As per our ancient scriptures, inhabitants of Gokul, where Lord Krishna had grown up, used to celebrate a festival and worship lord Indra for showering rains. Krishna protested and said it is 'Govardhan', a small hillock that caused rains and not Indra. This infuriated Indra and he caused a deluge to submerge Gokul. To save the locals, Lord Krishna lifted the Govardhan hillock with his little finger and used it like an umbrella. After this incident, a mountain of food is decorated symbolizing Govardhan and offered to Krishna on this day.

The fifth day of Diwali, Bhai Dhooj holds a great significance for brothers and sisters. The legend behind it goes that Yamraj, the Lord of Death visited his sister Yamuna and she put the traditional tilak on his forehead to welcome him. Later they exchanged gifts and had a great time together. At the end, the contented Yamraj announced that brothers who visit their sisters on this day and receive a tilak would prosper in life and be saved from obstacles that come their way. Since then, Bhai dhooj is dedicated to sisters

All of these traditions are kept alive only when parents take the time and effort to inculcate them in children. The most important part is the message conveyed- that of enjoyment and interest in our own culture. In today’s fast paced life where stress is unavoidable, these five days of Diwali offer rejuvenation to the body and spirit. It can be instrumental in awakening of the conscience and enlightenment of the soul, which is necessary for physical well-being.

Deepavali is the celebration of this Inner Light and surpassing of all obstacles and ignorance that comes one’s way

Dr. Hira Taparia, an aura expert says, “There is a lot of significance in lighting of diyas on Diwali as it increases the aura around us. Lighting of earthen diyas awakens the five elements around us like ‘earth’ element due to the earthen diya, ‘water’ element from the oil used in the diya, ‘fire’ element from the spark, ‘sky’ energy is derived from light it emits and ‘air’ element from the smoke and scent of the fire. When you light the diyas in every room, all these energies are released and surround us. These energies enter our body, thereby filling the hollowness within us and rejuvenating our inner self”. Interestingly the rangolis used in Diwali also have significance, as Dr. Taparia adds, “During Diwali, it is suggested that you make a round rangoli as the energy remains intact in that round circumference. If a star or square is drawn, then the energy gets diverted”.